Because of its construction, engineered hardwood brings with it a number of advantages including quick installation. This project focuses on installing an engineered floor with glue. Glue, Float and Nail installation are three main methods used for installing this type of floor.
Glue Installation: Planks are glued to the sub-floor. Must be used when installing cork or parquet flooring. Concrete sub-flooring is required.
There are 9 steps to completing this project:
Add together the width of several planks and the width of the recommended expansion gap between the flooring and wall. Snap a chalk line this distance from the parallel wall. Nail a straight board between the line and the wall to use as a guide.
Spread a coat of engineered-wood flooring adhesive about two planks wide along the guideboard, using the notched trowel recommended by the manufacturer. Using the wrong trowel results in either too thick or thin a coat of adhesive.
Put the groove of the first plank tight against the guideboard. Put the end of the next plank snugly against the end of the installed plank and push the two together. Slide the plank through the adhesive as little as possible (the adhesive tends to pull the plank back to its starting point). Work your way down the guideboard.
Cut the last board of the first row to fit, leaving the recommended expansion gap. Push the board into place with a pry bar, protecting the wall with a putty knife or a scrap piece of wood.
Begin the second row with the piece cut off from the first row. This keeps the ends of the planks from lining up, creating both a stronger and better-looking floor. Maintain the expansion gap by butting the cut off against a spacer at the wall. If using the cut off results in a board that is awkwardly short, or if its end falls closer to the end of the neighbouring plank than the manufacturer recommends, cut a new board. 4" space between joints minimum.
Work your way down the second row, putting the end of the board together first then sliding the edge of the plank into the planks of the first row. Clean off any glue that gets on top of the boards using the recommended cleaner. Some manufacturers recommend taping adjoining rows together to keep them from spreading apart as you work. Use blue painter's tape and apply it perpendicular to the seam. Cut the last piece of the row to fit, leaving the proper expansion gap between the plank and the wall.
Push the last board of each row into place using the same method from Step 4. Spread more adhesive as you work your way across the room, staying off the freshly laid planks.
Measure and cut planks to the width of the distance from the second last row to the wall, allowing for the expansion gap. Spread the adhesive and put the planks in place.
Once the adhesive has dried, remove the guideboard you nailed where you started the installation. Spread adhesive in the remaining space and lay flooring one row at a time. Measure and trim the last row as needed, leaving the same-size space you left along the other walls.
Seat the last row against the preceding row with a pry bar. Protect the wall with a scrap of flooring. Pry all along the edge of the board.
Install baseboard around the room to cover the expansion gap and protect the walls.
